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Bo'Darc Kennel Puppy Development
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| Below are some of my thoughts as well as sequential steps in what I call puppy development. I personally do not view this as training, but rather different methods I use to develop my pups and help surface their natural inherited instincts. Please understand that in no way am I implying that this is THE only way to raise and start pups. This is just a reference for you to see how I do it. To better show what I am referring to, I will be using video clips, they will be positioned under the applicable text. I would also like to add that most of this below is a collection of many years of trail and error on my part as well as listening to what others had to say in regard to successfully raising quality gun dog puppies. |
| Before Birth | Proper puppy development starts as far as I'm concerned, with the proper selection of the sire and dam. If there is a "weak link" to be found within them, there is a chance that their pup may have the same weakness. On the other hand, I do not feel that there is a "perfect" dog. Given enough time a hole can be found in any of them. The best I can do is use dogs that I breed that have the fewest holes. |
| Before Birth | I always allow for my bred females an opportunity to point some birds while they are carrying their pups. Whether it be hunting them during bird season or setting up some pen raised quail or pigeons, I want them to point some birds. It is my belief that whatever sensation and stimulation the female is experiencing while being on point, her pups are experiencing similar stimuli as well, during this pointing session. |
| Before Birth | Enough has been wrote about proper health and nutrition, so I will not elaborate
here. However it is very critical to the development and final
outcome of our prospect, so it is very important to not overlook or take
lightly.
Be sure female has a warm safe area to whelp and raise her pups. I use an area on my back porch I have set up as our "maternity ward". The female's emotional status at this time is crucial to raising happy content pups. I also have a radio, dialed into a local radio station, playing at all times near the dam. |
| Day 2 | Remove dew claws and give the pups a good "looking over". |
| Day 3 to Week 3 | Begin the light form of stimulation and manipulation utilizing the
BioSensor/Superdog method. This is done from day 3 to day 21.
The pups first worming is given at week 2. |
| Week
4 to Week 6
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I move
the pups to a metal pen that is up off the ground. I worm them again
at week 4 as well as give them a parvo shot. Week 6 the pups get
another worming and their first combination shot. I start feeding the pups
moistened solid food with ground deer meat added. Although not taken
away completely, I start taking the dam away from the pups a few hours at
a time, progressively getting longer each day. Each pup is handled
individually, everyday.
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| Between week 6 and 7 | At this
time the pups have two rounds of shots in them and I feel it is now safe
for them to "hit the ground". I move the pups to their new
20' X 70' puppy pen. It is also at this time that I attach the pup's
"collar-cord". This is a small nylon rope, tied in a
manner that it will not slip. After being tied around the pups neck,
a short "tail" of the rope is left as a checkcord. This is
the best way I know how to start the process of collar/rope breaking a
pup. By their littermates tugging on the ropes as well as them
stepping on it, the pups are being taught to lead without a hand being
laid on them.
The female is moved to the puppy pen along with the pups to help assure them of their new surroundings. |
| Week 7 to Week 9 | The female is removed from the pups at 7 weeks. It is at this time I
start introducing the pups to the "wing", to help engage their
pointing instinct. If you don't have a wing, a rag on a fishing pole
will suffice. This is what I use, as a wing on a pole doesn't last
too long around my place with the cats and the "yard dog"
around. Many times the pups don't point the wing right away, all
they want to do is chase it and try to grab it with their mouth. I
view this as completely normal. The chase will eventually slow to a
creep or stalk and soon thereafter, there will be a point.
The pups are wormed again at 8 weeks and they receive another combo shot at 9 weeks. video clip of pup pointing a rag
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All of the above is what is taking place behind the scenes, before a new owner ever receives their pup from Bo'Darc Kennel. I prefer to let pups leave after they have received their 9 week shot and have had alot of opportunity to get started on becoming the next great gun dog they were bred to be. |
| Week 9 to Week 12 |
I am still allowing the pup to sight point the wing. I generally do this one to three times a week with no more than 5 minutes or so per session. I don't want to over do this, but I am using the wing as a gauge to let me know where the pup is at with their pointing instinct. What I am looking for is a pup to point the wing "hard". By that I mean they are not chasing much if any, they remain motionless and their eyes are literally rolling around in their head when they see the wing. In other words, they are very eager to point. video clip of pointing a rag hard When the pups are pointing the wing hard, I then take advantage of this natural instinct and start them sight pointing a live bird, a pigeon. When the pup starts pointing the pigeon, I no longer use the wing. Just as when we started the pup on the wing, I often see pups want to charge in or attempt to catch the bird. This is obviously not what we want. With the wing, we could just flip it out of the pups way, it's not so easy to do with a live bird. We must administer some control of the pup and this is where our collar and checkcord come into play. The pups are already somewhat acclimated to having a collar and rope attached to them from them having had the collar-cord treatment back when they were 6 to 7 weeks old. Another tool for helping the pup become acclimated to his collar and being lead around, is the use of a chain gang. I use a pigeon pole to allow the pups to point the pigeon. It's about 20 feet of nylon cord attached to a 10 ft. piece of PCV pipe. While the pup is sight pointing the pigeon, I am always mindful of the wind direction so that the pup can get a good nose full of the bird's scent. It won't be long until the pup starts pointing the pigeons by scent.
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Mike Logan Bo'Darc Kennel #8 SW Riverside Ave. Ponca City, OK. 74601 580-762-9017 |